Butt, Beak, Bang: How to Prepare & Cook Wild Duck & Goose

Jonathan Wilkins is an outdoorsman, writer, hunting guide, and wild game cook. He is best known as the founder and owner of Black Duck Revival, a hunting lodge, guide service, media brand, and podcast based in Brinkley, Arkansas.

Key takeaways

• Learn how to prepare waterfowl after the hunt by plucking, butchering, brining, and using nearly every edible part to maximize flavor and minimize waste.

• The best methods for cooking wild duck and goose include searing breasts to 130–135°F, braising legs for 2-2 ½ hours, and simmering the roasted bones to make stock.

• Cooking a whole duck starts with dry plucking, which preserves the skin for crispier cooking and creates more options for roasting, smoking, or pan-searing.

• Brining wild duck or goose with salt, sugar, and aromatics helps the meat stay juicy, seasons it throughout, and produces crispier skin before cooking.

• Save duck and goose fat, organs, and bones when processing birds to render cooking fat, prepare flavorful dishes, and make rich homemade stock for future waterfowl recipes.

It’s easy to get lost in the why’s of waterfowling. It’s a type of hunting that involves a preponderance of waiting. Waiting gives time for the mind to wander. That reliability, coupled with the human need to justify suffering and explain away failure, results in a gaggle of pseudo-profound pronouncements. We all become philosophers waiting in the dark, doing our best to ignore the penetrating chill as we wait for the sun to rise and birds to fly. Poetic ruminations abound when triggers are pulled, and birds escape unfazed.

We settle on genteel notions of lineage and craft. We talk of fathers and sons. Weather is blamed, skill is overstated. It’s the way of things, and I’ve blathered on about all of it as much as anyone over the last few years. The romance of it all…

I think for now, I’ve decided that the why isn’t always the most important consideration and that sometimes it's best to get busy with the business of making it happen. The word hunt is a verb, and hence it requires action. Once there are birds in hand, the work continues. To make meals and share the best of us with others.

We owe it to ourselves, our prey, and the pursuit to be mindful with the lives we take. To me, the best way of doing that is by using as much of the bird as reasonably possible. I learned to shoot ducks and geese with the adage of “butt, beak, bang” in mind as a way to prompt myself to pull through the shot and lead across a flying bird. It’s apropos to apply the same expression when it comes to cooking the bird because with waterfowl you can eat just about everything other than the quack. 

I’ve made it a mission of mine to show others how to get the most culinary traction from their bird hunts. Here are some of the broad strokes.

Best Methods Of Cooking Waterfowl

Duck Cooking Guide

Breast — Sear

• Small ducks: 3–4 minutes

• Medium ducks: 5–6 minutes

• Large ducks and geese: 7–10 minutes

• Aim for medium-rare, with an internal temperature of 130–135°F, to keep the meat tender.

Legs — Braise

• Cook for 2–2½ hours

• Set the oven to 300°F and cook covered.

• The meat is done when it pulls away from the bone easily.

Liver — Quick Fry

• Fry for 1–2 minutes per side

• Cook in a hot pan with oil or duck fat.

• The outside should be golden brown while the inside remains slightly pink and creamy.

Heart — Quick Fry

• Fry for 3–4 minutes total

• Cook over medium-high heat.

• Shake the pan occasionally so the heart browns evenly on all sides.

Gizzards — Simmer and Fry

• Simmer in water or stock for at least 45 minutes, or until tender.

• Coat in breading.

• Deep-fry or pan-fry for about 2 minutes , until crispy.

Bones — Stock

• Roast raw or meaty bones at 400°F for 30–60 minutes, until golden brown.

• Bring the roasted bones, water, and vegetables to a boil.

• Reduce to a simmer and cook for 3–4 hours

How to Prepare a Duck or Goose After the Shot

The hunt isn't over when the bird hits the ground. In a lot of ways, that's when your responsibility really begins. One of the biggest mistakes I see waterfowlers make is treating game care like an afterthought. Birds get piled up in the blind, tossed in the bed of the truck, and left there until it's time to clean them. If you respect the resource and want the best table fare possible, that's not good enough.

Every bird deserves the same care you'd give any wild game you're proud to bring home. My first priority is getting that body heat out as quickly as I can. On cold mornings, I'll spread birds out instead of stacking them so the air can move around them and cool them naturally. If it's warm or I've got much of a drive ahead of me, they're headed straight into a cooler with ice for the ride home. It doesn't take much extra effort, but those few minutes make all the difference. You've already invested the time to scout, call, and hunt the right way. Taking care of the bird afterward is simply finishing the job with the same level of respect.

How to Pluck Your Birds

If there is one thing I try to impress upon the folks that come hunt with me, it’s this. When it’s a dabbling duck or a fat goose, I’m almost always going to pluck it. Occasionally, that means that I’m up late in my shop pulling feathers when I’d rather be in a warm bed. Such is life. It’s a small concession to make when I’ve slept in my truck, set out hundreds of decoys, spent hours scouting, or swamped my waders to get those birds. When you account for the investment of equipment, gear, and time, there are few things more expensive than a wild duck/goose breast.

That’s 4oz of meaty gold you've got marinating in Italian dressing, and it's absolutely beyond me that folks would be content to “high grade” the meat from a super tasty and hard-earned animal.

At Black Duck Revival, I teach different methods of getting the feathers off of your ducks and geese. Primarily that means dry plucking, wax plucking, or mechanical plucking. All of the methods have their merits, but I think it’s hard to beat dry plucking for its simplicity. No special equipment, just time and a bit of effort. A quick singe with a torch to remove the fine hair-like pinfeathers and you’re left with a whole bird and tons of options

How to Butcher A Wild Duck or Goose

After plucking, I carefully remove the entrails, taking care not to damage the gallbladder or intestines, and then thoroughly clean and dry the cavity. Every step is deliberate because it matters.

I also believe we should use as much of the bird as possible. Wild game isn't disposable. Legs that some hunters leave behind can become rich confit. Carcasses become stock. Hearts, gizzards, and livers have earned a place at the table, right alongside the breasts, if we're willing to learn how to prepare them.

That's part of honoring the bird. When needed, I will locate the breastbone and make a shallow incision along one side of it. Then use the tip of the knife to follow the rib cage, keeping the blade tight against the bone to maximize meat yield rather than cutting through the breast. Then work from the top of the breast toward the wing joint, freeing the breast meat with short, controlled cuts. Lastly, I separate the breast by cutting through the wing joint, or by leaving the first wing section attached. If needed, I’ll repeat on the opposite side, then trim away any remaining connective tissue or shot-damaged meat.

Brining Waterfowl

By the time a duck or goose reaches the kitchen, I've already invested a lot in that bird. None of that should be undone because I rushed the final steps. For me, brining is one more way to honor the resource.

A good brine isn't about masking the flavor of wild game. It's about enhancing what's already there. Wild ducks and geese have a depth of flavor that's impossible to find anywhere else, and a simple brine helps the meat stay juicy while seasoning it all the way through.

I like to keep it uncomplicated. Cold water, kosher salt, a little brown sugar to balance the salt, and whatever aromatics fit the meal. Such as black peppercorns, garlic, bay leaves, citrus, or fresh herbs. The ingredients matter less than giving the bird enough time to benefit from them.

The bird is placed in the brine and then refrigerated. Smaller puddle ducks may only need several hours. Larger ducks and geese can benefit from an overnight soak, but I avoid leaving them too long. The goal is to complement the meat, not overwhelm it.

Once the brining is finished, I rinse the bird lightly, pat it completely dry, and let it rest uncovered in the refrigerator for a few more hours if time allows. That extra drying time helps the skin crisp beautifully whether it's headed for the smoker, a hot oven, or a cast-iron skillet.

Brining isn't a shortcut. It's a valuable part of the process.

Rendering Duck & Goose Fat

Some of the tastiest parts of a duck or goose never make it to the table because hunters toss them while cleaning the birds. That's a missed opportunity.

As I break down birds, I save the clean skin and fat from around the breast, back, and body cavity. After chopping it into small pieces, I add it to a heavy pot with a splash of water and let it render low and slow. Patience is the key. As the fat melts, the cracklings turn golden, and the liquid takes on a rich, golden color.

Once it's finished, I strain the fat into a glass jar and keep it in the refrigerator for future meals. Fat rendered from waterfowl is tough to beat for roasting potatoes, cooking vegetables, or adding depth to just about any wild game dish.

The birds give us far more than breasts. Taking the time to render the fat is another way to honor the resource and ensure nothing goes to waste.

Duck & Goose Steak: How to Cook Waterfowl Breast

Seasoned with salt and pepper, cooked medium-rare, skin-on duck or goose breast tastes like bacon-wrapped filet mignon. Take that same piece of meat too well done and you've got something more akin to boot leather than fine dining. Learn to simply sear a waterfowl breast, and you'll make more converts to eating wild waterfowl than you will with all of the Kerouac-esque declarations you can think of.

Season the meat and start it skin-side down in a cold pan. The meat coming up to temp with the pan will allow time for the fat to render and the skin to crisp. 3.5 minutes on the skin-side and 2 minutes on the opposite side is a good ballpark for a mallard breast. I cook a lot of white-fronted geese, so I lean more towards a 4/3 ratio for those bigger birds. Use tongs to turn the meat and to sear the sides for a few seconds so there aren't “raw” spots. 

Resting the meat for several minutes, then cutting thin slices across the grain is all that’s needed for a top-tier eating experience. Making a basic pan sauce with stock and butter elevates the dish another few notches.

Braise the Legs

Wild waterfowl leg quarters are notoriously tough, but in my opinion, they’re the best tasting meat on the whole bird. Searing the legs then slow braising for several hours in a flavorful stock makes all the difference and yields a dish worth fist fighting over. You can serve over rice, grits, or potatoes with phenomenal results. I think so highly of this preparation that braised goose thighs and rice has become the standard Christmas meal at my house.

Cooking Waterfowl Organs: Heart, Liver, & Gizzard

It’s time for us all to grow up a bit when it comes to eating offal. There are countless delicious and beloved meals the world over that feature the “wobbly bits.” While I tend to think that ungulate livers are a bit like munching into a soft sack of pennies, the heart, liver, and gizzard of waterfowl are remarkably mild-tasting. In fact, they're great, flame-kissed over an open fire or dredged in flour before being quick-fried. Undoubtedly, though, my favorite application is dirty rice. 

Minced organ meat is cooked fast in rendered fat using a cast iron pan with onion, celery, bell pepper, and garlic. I season heavily with Cajun spice (paprika, thyme, onion powder, garlic powder, salt, black pepper, white pepper, and oregano) before adding pre-cooked rice, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, and a spoonful of ketchup. It’s like making the best and easiest fried rice of your life. 

At this point, I’ve cooked this meal for hundreds of folks, and I’ve never not had someone be blown away with the results. Josie Wales was right: buzzards do have to eat, but they’ll be hard-pressed to make a meal from my leavings.

Make Stock from the Bones

Making your own stock from bones and trim is the most accessible way to add depth of flavor when cooking wild game. It’s also as easy as boiling water, so there’s little excuse not to add it to your repertoire. 

I roast waterfowl carcasses, bones, necks, well-scrubbed feet, etc. until brown, then add to a large pot with aromatics (carrots, onions, celery, fresh herbs, etc.).  Cover with water and gently simmer until reduced by at least 50% in volume. Skim and discard the solids that form on top of the liquid a few times while cooking and strain the liquid before storing in jars. I leave a little headspace in my mason jars to allow for expansion before freezing the stock for up to a year. 

Additionally, you can continue to reduce the stock until it thoroughly coats the back of a spoon. This liquid is considered one of the flavor bases for classic French cooking and is known as brown sauce. I like to freeze it in silicone ice cube trays and then pop one or two out when making pan sauces or fortifying soups. It’s a certified game-changer when it comes to cooking just about any savory dish.

I’m hopeful that these simple methods will encourage you to spend a bit more time exploring the range of possibilities when it comes to cooking waterfowl. I can’t think of a more generally employable way to increase your yield and extend the pleasure of your waterfowling season than by getting more from your time in the kitchen after the hunt. It’s a declaration to the craft of it all and a reverent tip of the hat to all of the birds that got away.

Our Favorite Waterfowl Recipes

Duck Bolognese

Short description E.g. Wild duck legs slow-cooked into a rich, freezer-friendly bolognese. A practical whole-bird recipe that turns the most underused cut into the best thing on the table.

Duck bolognese recipe

Spicy Cranberry Duck Wings

Spicy Cranberry Duck Wings are a bold, crowd-pleasing appetizer featuring tender, crispy duck tossed in a sweet, tangy cranberry sauce with honey, orange, vinegar, and serrano chilies. Perfect for holiday gatherings, duck camp, or game-day entertaining.

Spicy cranberry duck wings recipe

Canvasback Duck Recipe

A classic Canvasback duck recipe featuring skin-on duck breasts seared in a cast-iron skillet and served over rice with sautéed portobello mushrooms, garlic, and rich brown gravy. A simple, hearty preparation that highlights the rich flavor of this prized wild duck.

Canvasback duck recipe

Ribeye In The Sky

A simple grilled sandhill crane recipe that treats the bird like a tenderloin. The lean crane breast is seasoned with olive oil, salt, and pepper, then seared over high heat to rare or medium-rare and sliced across the grain.

Ribeye in the sky recipe

FAQs: Cooking Duck & Goose After A Hunt

Is waterfowl edible?

Yes, waterfowl is edible. It’s often thought of as inedible because it’s rarely prepared correctly. Taking the time to properly clean and cook waterfowl will make it taste delectable. 

How to prepare a duck after shooting it?

To prepare a duck after shooting it, you need to quickly cool it, pluck the feathers, then remove the meat and organs. 

Do I need to wash duck before cooking?

Yes, always wash duck before cooking. This helps remove blood clots, feathers, grass, and other debris from the meat.

How should wild duck be cooked?

Wild duck should be cooked medium-rare. It’s easy to overcook wild duck, making it tough and less flavorful. 

Can wild duck be eaten medium-rare?

Yes, wild duck can be eaten medium-rare. In fact, it is best served at medium-rare because it is more tender and tastes better when not overcooked. 

Sources & Further Reading

• https://www.sitkagear.mom/experience/what-to-wear-duck-hunting 

• https://www.sitkagear.mom/experience/waterfowl-conservation-management-five-oaks 

• https://www.sitkagear.mom/experience/following-the-call-honoring-a-waterfowl-tradition 

• https://www.sitkagear.mom/experience/inalienable-beliefs-of-a-waterfowler